The Beech tree, a type of deciduous tree with the genus Fagaceae, flourishes in Europe, Asia, and North America. We break it into two subgenera: Engleriana, which is found exclusively in East Asia, and Fagus, which encompasses the rest. In North America, the “American Beech” or Fagus grandifolia grows in central and southeastern states (as far down as east Texas), as well as states bordering the Great Lakes. Distinctive characteristics include low-hanging branches with yellow-green leaves in spring and small, triangular “beechnuts” in winter.
Appearance
The beech tree has a distinctive, silvery bark, and tends to grow very tall, up to 80 feet. Inside, its wood is dense and robust, with evenly textured stock and a straight grain. The light color of the sapwood echoes that of the yellow birch, although beech is more reddish in the heartwood. Growth rings develop surrounded by slightly darker latewood. Beech wood’s distinctive rays branch out short, yet unusually broad.
Its natural light color easily can be changed. Beech’s fine grain helps it to take well to varnish and staining (except for the heartwood).
Uses
Beech wood’s versatility demonstrated itself early– in ancient Germanic cultures, they utilized beech to make primitive tablets before paper was invented. The German word for book, “Buch,” comes from their word for beech, “Buche.”
Though beech wood doesn’t take well to drying, it excels in turning and bending. Beech resists breaks and compression and sticks well with glue. It also bends exceptionally well with steam, and so it functions frequently as chair backs and legs. With beech wood, woodworkers create materials as wide-ranging as delicate goblets since it bends and wooden spoons since it holds up to wear and tear. People also use harvested beech wood for flooring, containers, and railroad tracks.
Compared to other lighter-colored wood such as pine, beech withstands more abuse without denting or scratching; in fact, beech wood may grow smoother the more it is used. It also has only a very mild wood smell. However, beech wood is susceptible to moisture and particularly rot. Because of this, it endures best in a dry environment.
Cost and Availability
Until the invention of the modern chainsaw, beech trees were not harvested in mass quantities because of their density. For this reason, some unusually large groves of old beech trees remain. Now, they are regularly cut down but still quite plentiful.
Those looking for a hard, high-density wood should consider beech wood as a top option. The NHLA has graded the underappreciated beech “standard,” and it costs much less than other woods of comparable hardness. Demand for it in recent years has not increased, yet supply continues to be readily available. Many people utilize beech wood as a cheaper option to hard maple or oak.
What are the best rooms for hardwood? Is there anywhere it shouldn’t be installed? Hardwood flooring is classic, beautiful, and allergy-friendly, but it should not be ubiquitous! As you plan to upgrade your floors, here’s where hardwood flooring belongs, where it should be banned and why each is true.
The Best Rooms for Hardwood Flooring
You’ll love the rich beauty of wood floors in these rooms, and you can install them without performance worries as long as you take proper care of your floors.
Living room: Hardwood communicates the lifestyle homeowners enjoy sharing when hosting gatherings of family and friends. It stands up well to traffic, even if you forego a no-shoes policy when entertaining. The occasional oopsie spill won’t pose a threat when cleaned up promptly.
Dining room: Whether your dining room is quite formal or has a casual vibe, there’s a hardwood flooring style that will enhance your room’s design maintaining durability over time. Adding soft pads to your chair and table feet reduces noise while protecting the hardwood finish.
Den: Hardwood floors accented with a large, comfy rug create a calm and cozy setting for unwinding with a book, casual conversation or a favorite show. It is safe to set your bookshelf on top of hardwood floors, and, as long as you don’t spill your wine on the floor, it will likely remain stain-free.
Home office: New Worker Magazine recently discussed the “increase in productivity attributed to hardwood floors,” and quoted TV producer Paula Rizzo saying, “Hardwood flooring generates positive emotions that help boost productivity.” So, you never know!
Master suite: Resisting the temptation to refer to our comments on the home office, we’ll say the obvious, that hardwood is rich, appealing and romantic. Throw in a toe-snuggling rug, love seat, and Barry White music, and a bodacious boudoir takes shape.
The Worst Rooms for Hardwood Flooring
Because of hardwood’s superior qualities, some have been enticed to install it everywhere… and have sorely regretted their rash choice! That is to say that you can install hardwood flooring in these rooms, but we would never recommend it.
Bathroom: Water is your floor’s nemesis. The results of letting these two face-off in the same room will not be pretty; neither will the bill to repair or replace. If you throw caution to the wind and choose hardwood for the bathroom, plan to repair and replace your floors often.
Laundry room: If you never throw wet towels on the floor, never hang clothes to dry, never spill liquid detergent or cleaning fluids, can promise your clothes washer will never leak… oh, and the important one: you love to entertain in the laundry room, go with laminate or tile in this room. Please!
Foyer: “Mom and Dad, I want you to meet Tyler. He’s a cook at Taco Clown.” Hello hugs and goodbye kisses are exchanged here; The foyer or entryway is highly regarded space. But, NOTHING good happens to hardwood here: gritty sand is tracked in, moisture from wet shoes seeps into cracks…
What About the Hardwood Flooring in the Kitchen?
Kitchen: Homeowners who love hardwood flooring, especially those with open floorplans. Everyone wants to know if hardwood is OK for the kitchen.
We say, “Go for it… with a couple of caveats.”
Consider engineered hardwood because its plywood base layers handle moisture better than solid hardwood
Clean up spills promptly, like an NFL lineman diving on a fumble
Seal your floors with the regularity recommended by the manufacturer or installer
Never use a steam mop on hardwood (wherever it is installed)
Final Thoughts
Hardwood has a place in every fine home, but just not everywhere for everyone. Practicing these tips for the right and woring rooms for hardwood flooring should produce a fulfilling long-term relationship with nature’s most beautiful floors. Now, learn how to choose the best hardwood flooring for any home.
Can pets and hardwood floors coexist? Well, both have been mainstays in homes for centuries, and experience has produced a wealth of wisdom about the pets vs hardwood conundrum. These tips for integrating pets and hardwood flooring will keep you happy, your floors looking fantastic and your pooch from sporting that sheepish, “Uh-oh, I’m in the doghouse now” posture.
Choose Hard Hardwood
That sounds like a brief stutter, but we mean exactly that. The hardness of hardwoods varies quite a bit on the Janka Hardness Test that engineers use to measure the force needed to dent wood with a small steel ball. As you see, some jobs are more fun than others.
The Janka rating of each flooring is usually listed in the marketing materials for hardwood sold in stores and online. Here’s a brief sampling of the hardness of available hardwood floors. The higher the Janka rating, the tougher the wood is and the better it will stand up to pet’s nails and potential stains, chair feet and dropped cast iron pans.
If your floors are already installed, the softer your wood species is, the more precautions you need to take.
Add a Coat or Two of Finish
Keeping scratches out of the wood is the key to delaying the need for refinishing your floors. Your local flooring specialist will recommend the right coating or tough sealer that won’t change the appearance of the wood.
Now that we’ve prepared the floor for the introduction of a furry friend or two, these methods for how to integrate pets and hardwood flooring will make the mix pleasant.
Keep Pets Off Hardwood Until House Trained – or if Unwell
Until your cat decides the litter box is not beneath its dignity (rabbits will use a box too) and the dog learns to hold it until you open the back door, keep them off the hardwood. Use gates and closed doors for location control. Unpleasant warning: If any of your critters pee, poop or puke on the floor, clean up the mess promptly with a mild detergent solution, rinse with a damp cloth and dry the floor completely to prevent staining and moisture damage.
Trim Sharp Claws
The heavier your pet is, the more important it is to keep their nails trimmed. Squaring off sharp claws is more important than cutting them short, so trim gently. Note that rabbit nails get very sharp quickly, so frequent trimming might be necessary.
Reduce Romping on Hardwood
Hardwood will age fast if you frequently throw a Frisbee for Fido to fetch on it. Discourage kids from frolicking with the pets too. Excited kids and pets running, jumping and skidding around corners on the hardwood are… hard… on… the… wood. Outside is best for this type of play.
Improve Their Comfort Too
Perhaps you’ve placed a throw rug where you stand on your hardwood for long periods during duty kitchen duty or food preparation. To encourage your pets to be your kitchen companions, be sure to place a rug nearby for them. Just a little bonus tip to help your pets feel at home on hardwood without causing troubles for you.
For more tips on protecting your space while making your pets feel at home, check out this puppy-proofing guide from Apartminty.
New flooring is a significant financial investment, so getting the greatest longevity from your existing floors is important, whether they’re new or have a few years of wear on them. The subject of this guide is how to make your floors last longer.
How to Get Maximum Wear from Your Flooring
Let’s look at today’s most common flooring types with “do’s and don’ts” for keeping them in good condition for many years to come.
TLC for Carpeting
The key to long-lasting carpet is to keep it clean and go as easy as possible on it. Here’s how:
Carpet Care Do’s:
Vacuum the carpet at least weekly and as needed with a unit equipped with a powerful motor and rotating brush to remove deep-down dirt.
Shampoo the entire carpet once or twice per year, and treat spot stains as needed.
Place pads on furniture feet to prevent deep impressions in the carpet – especially on metal feet because they will rust and stain the carpet.
When spills occur, first, learn the proper techniques for cleaning them up; Secondly, clean them up immediately, right now, pronto and post haste.
Carpet Care Don’ts:
Don’t let pets within 15 feet of the carpet until they are house trained; The same goes for toddlers – in fact, it’s not a bad idea to keep adolescents and teens off the carpet too.
Don’t overdo the steam cleaning because some carpeting shrinks, and the seams pull apart
Vital Vinyl Floor Care
Whether you have inexpensive sheet vinyl flooring or upscale luxury vinyl tile (LVT), these tips will keep it looking better longer:
Vinyl Care Do’s:
Sweep or vacuum and damp mop vinyl for general cleaning.
Use warm water to loosen stuck-on stains.
Remove excess water from LVT to keep it from seeping into seams.
Vinyl Care Don’ts:
If you vacuum the vinyl, turn off the rotating brush, aka beater bar, because it will mar the surface.
Don’t use harsh chemical cleaners on vinyl unless you’re tired of it and want to ruin it as an excuse to replace it with some gorgeous natural hardwood flooring.
Lessons forLaminate Flooring
Treat laminate flooring like vinyl flooring, and definitely don’t use a steam cleaner on it. The harsh chemical cleaner trick isn’t as effective, but dropping lit cigars on laminate and removing minor stains with a belt sander will surely do the job.
Hardwood How-to’s and How-not-to’s
Solid and engineered hardwood are gorgeous, elegant and luxurious, which is to say “we like them very much.” Take care of hardwood, and it will go 20+ years before needing to be refinished. Refinish it, and hardwood will look like new at a fraction of the cost! These hardwood floor care tips will help you keep the wow-factor on your hardwood floors.
Hardwood Care Do’s:
Sweep at least weekly and use a damp cloth on dirt spots as needed.
Turn the rotating brush off if you use a vacuum to sweep.
Keep wet, dirty shoes off the hardwood.
Switch to slippers or socks indoors.
Add protective pads to the feet of allfurniture placed on hardwood flooring.
Pick up furniture when moving it rather than sliding it over the flooring.
Use a humidifier when running a forced-air furnace to maintain adequate moisture content in the wood and keep it from shrinking and causing gaps.
Hardwood Care Don’ts:
Don’t use mats with rubber backing because they will trap moisture against the wood.
Don’t use wax on wood unless you want a dull, grungy finish that collects dirt and debris.
Don’t use a steam mop because the hardwood will absorb the excess moisture, swell, split, buckle or exhibit other nasty reactions.
Common Sense Floor Care
They say that common sense is quite uncommon these days, but we don’t buy that, and we doubt you do either. That makes it easy for us to recommend common-sense floor care that begins with carefully following the floor maintenance tips provided by the manufacturer for your flooring. These floor care how-to instructions can be found online if you don’t have them. Beyond those guidelines, if your flooring…
Isn’t visibly dirty or dull
Doesn’t darken white socks or bare feet
Doesn’t smell bad
Isn’t coming apart at the seams
…then you’re probably taking good care of it. Don’t overdo it, keep the motto “as needed” in mind, and you’ll do a great job getting maximum longevity from your flooring.
Wood floors have been used for their beauty since 1683 at Versailles. In the years since several myths about hardwood floors have become popular, but they’re mistaken. These myths have cost a lot of people a pretty penny, so let’s take a look at some of them and learn the facts about hardwood floors.
You Should Wax Your Hardwood Floors Regularly
Yes, this was once true, but it changed a long, long time ago. Floor finishes have evolved since then, making wax unnecessary. This was true in the early 20th century when floor finishes were often tung oil, which wasn’t very durable.
In the 1920s, alkyd resin was used to make varnishes more durable, and in the 1930s, polyurethane finishes were introduced to create the first no-wax floors. The finishes used on hardwood floors now are even more durable.
The fact is that unless the hardwood floor hasn’t been refinished since 1930, the floor shouldn’t be waxed. Waxing the floor makes it impossible to apply a fresh coat of finish when it’s needed, so the floor will need to be sanded down when the current finish is due for maintenance.
Besides, a waxed floor can be really slippery under stocking feet. It’s pointless to risk a fall in order to protect a finish that doesn’t need to be protected.
Refinishing Your Hardwood Floor is a Good DIY Project
It has been done, of course. But the people who have done it have gotten results that are mixed, at best.
Tool rental shops usually have floor sanders for rent, but the equipment offered is not always the best, professional-grade tools. People who refinish floors for a living use the best tools that they can get, not rental equipment that has likely been abused
Hardwood flooring has a ‘wear layer’ that can be sanded away over the life of the floor to be refinished. An amateur is likely to take more wood off than is necessary, robbing themselves of years of the life of their floor. They also have a fair chance of damaging the floor, operating equipment that they’re not familiar with.
People with a home wood shop for a hobby can become remarkably skilled, with enough practice. But they don’t start out as experts, and they make plenty of mistakes while they’re learning. If they take on a new tool, without any experience or skill at maintaining flooring, they’re back to being a newbie again, with predictable results.
Even if someone does an amazing job of sanding the floor down and preparing it for a fresh finish, they won’t be able to get the best finishes. Those are not normally sold in the DIY market, they are usually sold to professionals. Finishes that are commonly available to DIYers won’t usually last as long as the finishes available to the pros.
Hardwood Floors are a Poor Choice For Kitchens
I may never understand why this myth got started, or why anyone would believe it. Hardwood floors are wonderful in kitchens. They’re warm, elegant, and certainly durable enough for the most-used room in everyone’s house. With the right choice of wood and finish, a hardwood floor is a fine choice for a kitchen.
A High-Quality Finish Will Prevent Scratching and Denting
Yes, some manufacturers of pre-finished flooring like to give that impression, but it’s simply not true. Some types of wood are more resistant to denting than others, but no wood is dent-proof.
Finishes are often excellent at resisting wear, but they don’t resist impact very well. In fact, you want a finish that will dent with the wood, to maintain the seal that the finish provides.
Scratch-proof flooring has not yet been invented. Drag something that’s hard and sharp across any type of flooring, even ceramic tile, and you’re going to see some damage done. No finish in the world will prevent that.
If you are a pretty steady DIY’er, for the most part, laying hardwood floor isn’t too difficult. The boards go over the subfloor, you put the groove and tongue ends together, tap them together, and nail the boards to the floor. There’s a bit more to it, but that’s the basic process. It can get tricky if you’re laying hardwood floors around a brick fireplace.
Prior planning is important so that you get a great finished look, and so that you avoid having any unsightly gaps. This is especially important when you’re working around the base of a fireplace. It might even be best to start laying the flooring around the fireplace, then working towards the rest of the room. There are a number of ways to do this
Undercut the Hearth
One of the best options for installing hardwood floors around a brick fireplace is to undercut the hearth (if you have a raised hearth). In order to do this you’ll need an undercut saw with a diamond tipped blade.
Since most people don’t have undercut saws, you’ll probably have to rent one. Make sure you have that diamond tipped blade. You won’t be able to do the job without it.
Once you have the tool, you’re going to be making two cuts into the hearth: One cut will be right at the point where the hearth and the subfloor meet. The other cut will be at the same height as the finished floor. The area between the two cuts you made will have to be chiseled out.
Carefully, chisel out the area and clean up the mess before checking to see if the floorboards fit. After you’ve seen that that floorboards fit nicely into the area you’ve cut, you can move on.
Scribing and Cutting
If you don’t want to undercut the brick, there’s another option that you might be interested. This method involves scribing and cutting the floorboards to fit the shape of the fireplace base.
First, get your hands on a wing divider (compass). Next, make sure the pencil in the wing divider has a sharp edge. After that, grab one of the floorboards. With the floorboard you just grabbed resting up against the brick, trace the shape of the hearth onto the floorboard.
When you’re finished tracing, use a saw to cut along the line you just made. Take the wood back to the fireplace and check to see if it fits well.
The big drawback to this approach is that it may take several tries before you get the cut just right. Cutting piece after piece—going back and forth—can be really time consuming, but you may find this worth it.
Using Molding Around the Hearth
Another alternative to scribing and cutting is using molding. This is an easier option for inexperienced installers. It can be an unattractive choice in my opinion, if not done correctly. That said, you’re going to need a few things to do it right.
First, you need a piece of baseboard cut to the length of the block (hearth). Next, you need a caulking gun with concrete adhesive caulk. You’re also going to need something like bookends or blocks. These are for holding the board in place.
Apply a 1/2″ bead of caulk along the back of the baseboard (2/3″ of the way up). Firmly, push the baseboard against the brick. Put your bookends, or blocks, in place to help hold the board while the caulk dries. Leave the baseboard undisturbed for a few hours and wait for the caulk to set.
Alternatively, you can use a trim gun—nailing the baseboard into the floor, not the brick—to hold the baseboard while the caulk dries. However, the previous method is much easier. But the trim gun method is faster.
A Great Finished Look
Hardwood floors are really beautiful and they add a lot of value to your home. A brick fireplace is also really attractive looking and a great way to draw people into a room. The combination of the two will take any room to another level and give it a great finished look. With prior planning, the right tools, and the right material anyone can pull off the job seamlessly. That said, if you are unsure about an install, however, contact a professional you trust and get their opinion.
Wood floors can add tremendous value to a home in addition to being a more durable, healthier when it comes to allergens, and elegant-appearing option. Even so, these floors come with a major drawback: noise. Sound waves bounce easily around a room installed with wood flooring. However, sound reduction can be implemented in several ways — before and after your wood floors are installed.
Pre-Installation Sound-Reduction Tips
Think about isolating the noise before it even has a chance to reflect throughout the room. This is best done during construction. One way to do this is by installing an acoustical soundboard beneath the subfloor. This can easily insulate the sound vibrations. Noise can then be blocked by ensuring the soundboards are cut to fit the outline of the room, yet be sure to leave gaps (e.g. 1/8-inch) around the edges. Then, before nailing the boards in, seal these gaps using sealant or silicone to stop the noise from spreading.
Underlayments such as mats can provide additional aid when trying to isolate sound. These underlayments can be made from the likes of rubber, vinyl, or even lightweight closed-cell foam. Remember: thicker floor coverings equal greater soundproof. In other words, cushioned vinyl will help isolate noise greater than regular vinyl.
A simple way to soundproof would be to combine mats and chipboard sheets with an acoustic underlayment. Many manufacturers offer these soundboards and mats, so be sure to ask what is available before installing any wood floors.
Post-Installation Sound Reduction Tips
If a home is already built and ready to go, think about decorating options. Specific furniture can often reduce the noise level you would hear from wood floors. Specifically, upholstered pieces help. Sofas and sectionals that are made using soft fabric are ideal choices for absorbing noises, especially when compared to leather furniture that does not offer much sound prevention.
When it comes to tables and chairs found in a dining room, think about tablecloths, slipcovers, and cushions. These materials easily soften the vibration of sounds.
While decorating a home to reduce sound, be sure to look at the walls, floors, and windows. A good area rug can readily absorb any sound, as does a fabric wall hanging. Concerning the windows, draperies will be able to capture any sounds that may vibrate off the floor and around the room. For greater absorption, use thicker material like suede rather than cotton or other lightweight fabrics.
Another area to look at would be the wood itself once you begin hearing squeaks. Over time, floorboards may start rubbing against each other. This generally means that there may be gaps between the finished flooring and the subfloor, or gaps between the subfloors and joist, all of which cause a squeaking sound when someone walks over it. The best way to handle this is to discover exactly where the squeaks are coming from.
If possible, head to the basement and have someone else walk along the floor above you. Once you hear a squeak, determine exactly what is causing it. A gap between the finished floor and subfloor has to be fixed from the finished side. Drill a 3 ½-inch drywall screw through the subfloor and into the joist. Squeaks that occur because a gap between the subfloor and joist can be fixed from below. Use a 3 ½-inch to 4-inch drywall screw, and angle it into the area where the joist and subfloor meet to pull the two together.
We hope some of these tips will help in and around the home to make it more comfortable for you and your family.
Hand-scraped floors have been around for many years but they have become very popular in the wood flooring industry. Years ago all scraped wood was scraped by hand but today mechanical processes have given it a slightly different look.
The Look
One reason that some people ask for hand-scraped floors is to add a very rustic and old look to their home. Others like to use it to create a modern urban feel. Regardless of the style you aim for, the result will still include a textured look. Fortunately, there are a lot of options available. You can choose from a variety of colors and ultimately change the feel of the textured look.
Options
The great thing about hand-scraped floors is that you have the option to refinish them in the future if you desire a different look and feel by changing the color and texture without the cost of replacing the floor.
Hand-scraped or Machine-scraped?
If you plan to purchase scraped hardwood floors, you should understand the difference between hand-scraped and machine-scraped. Although hand-scraped may cost more, no two planks will ever being the same. In fact, with the hand-scraped feature, you will gain a much more unique look. Floors that are machine-scraped cost less but also have a repetitive patterned look.
Never Do It Again
Once you have a hand-scraped floor, you never have to re-scrape it or even refinish it. Even if your floor sustains minor damage, it will be easily hidden because of the existing distress marks.
Minimum Maintenance
Compared to a classic, finished, smooth hardwood floor, hand-scraped floors require very little maintenance. You don’t need to refill or recoat scraped floors. You still must take the necessary precautions when cleaning the floor, but it is unlikely that you will need to refinish the floors unless you want to gain a smoother finish.
Scraped Engineered Hardwood Floors
There are many solid hardwood flooring options available for hand-scraped or machine-scraped floors. In addition, there are some manufacturers who offer engineered solid hardwood flooring with scraping. Engineered flooring is made up of several perpendicular layers of wood with a substantial layer of solid hardwood on the top. This process makes the flooring stronger and less susceptible to climate changes and other environmental factors.
Whether your goal is to embrace a popular trend or complement your décor, hand-scraped solid hardwood floors will be around for many years to come. To see the full selection of hand-scraped and machine-scraped floors available to you, visit the MacDonald Hardwoods showroom in downtown Denver.
Hardwood floors are prized in many homes for their beautiful looks and easy cleaning. Yet, just as with any flooring materials, hardwood brings with it unique challenges which any homeowner must address. In particular, dry climates and high altitudes expose hardwood to adverse conditions not found elsewhere. Even so, if you live in a desert climate or tucked away in the mountains and still want a beautiful floor, you don’t need to give up on your dream of owning hardwood.
The problem
Unlike artificial flooring, wood is a living material. It derives many of its qualities from internal moisture both at build time and over its life. If you’re in a high, dry climate, your floor isn’t getting the moisture it needs.
This lack manifests in several ways. Most common is dry cupping, a process caused by the difference between the floor’s underlying plywood substrate and the hardwood top. As these layers dry, they contract unevenly. The result is a top layer that contracts faster than the layer beneath, causing cracks and other disfigurements.
The Solution
Fortunately, dry cupping and other hardwood floor issues are easy to prevent by following a few important principles.
Pick Good Materials
Wood thickness and density plays an important role in how flooring responds to drier climates. Thicker woods absorb less humidity, but once they’re warped, those changes aren’t going away. Dry climates need materials that will respond well to sudden shifts in humidity and temperature.
Cherry and walnut are very stable woods. They may warp over time, but not in ways that will adversely affect the utility of the floor. No hardwood floor is perfect, and good materials will settle into their structure over time. A wood like hickory is dense and unyielding, but walnut and cherry will accommodate a foundation and retain that shape despite shifts in temperature and humidity.
Acclimate When Installing
Floors were most likely not manufactured in the environment where they are to be installed. Even if they are, conditions in the factory and at the installation site may differ enough that the wood’s character will change slightly over time. It is important for these changes to manifest before the floor is installed.
Acclimation is the process of letting wood sit in the ambient environment before commencing installation. This is especially important in dry climates, whose conditions are particularly harsh for moist woods.
Heat in Winter
Cold materials contract. As such, hardwood in winter will shrink and split, causing cracks that may expose the underlying plywood. Since colder temperatures are particularly harsh at high altitudes, heating in winter is critical to minimizing the temperature transitions to which a floor is subjected.
Control Humidity
Humidity permeates wood more slowly than it does air. As such, variable humidity levels will travel through hardwood and plywood like waves, causing tension that damages your floor over time.
By maintaining a constant humidity level, the tension between these layers can be normalized. Rather than expanding and contracting at random, they will maintain an equilibrium appropriate for their environment. The best way to achieve this is by integrating humidity control directly into HVAC systems, thus maintaining regulated levels of moisture throughout the life of the home.
Conclusion
While caring for a hardwood floor in high, dry climates may seem more complicated, it is just a matter of making the right initial choices while being aware of an area’s unique weather conditions. With the right wood, acclimation and internal environment, hardwood floors will look good and perform well for many long years.
Thanks to the advances made in the heated floor industry, it is now possible to confidently install hardwood floors over radiant heat. This means homeowners can now enjoy the natural beauty of hickory, oak, cherry, walnut, maple, ash, and any other fine hardwood, plus the efficiency and luxurious comfort provided by radiant heating.
Depending on where you reside, radiant heating offers the possibility of application as either the sole or as a supplementary heat source in your home.
Installation of Radiant Heating Systems
There are several possible methods of installing radiant heat systems, and these are;
For home renovations, direct installation of radiant heat tubing, under a wood subfloor, from the underside is a common practice, especially with the use of foil or traditional fiberglass to provide additional insulation.
The installation of radiant heat tubing within a plywood underlayment system, either over an existing slab of concrete or directly over a current wood subfloor is another option. It is, however, a strong recommendation to incorporate the traditional closed-cell foam insulation developed for utilization in damp areas.
Embedding radiant heat tubing within the concrete slab while pouring the concrete is an option for new constructions.
Most of the flooring materials can fruitfully be used over radiant heat when properly installed, although as we might all be aware, hardwood flooring offers the best comfort levels in addition to the highest aesthetic value.
Radiant Heating and Solid Hardwood Floors
Radiant heat is usually not recommended for application with solid woods since being a natural material, exposure to high levels of moisture and extensive fluctuations in temperature result in contractions and expansions. The presence of dry heat directly under solid wood floorings can, therefore, lead to quick drying out and contraction of the wood, which might result in cupping issues or the development of large gaps between floorboards. This is why most warranties for solid wood offered by manufacturers rarely cover installations over radiant heat.
For homeowners with hearts set on the ¾ inch traditional solid wood flooring, listed below are but a few recommendations.
Selection of wood
The choice of wood type is quite important, and this becomes apparent once you understand the impacts of the available options. Boards are cut from logs in two ways, these are;
Quarter-sawn: The grain runs vertically
Plain-sawn: The grain runs horizontally
Plain-sawn woods, upon exposure to temperature variations, expand from side to side, and this will more likely than not lead to cupping and gaps. On the other hand, quarter-sawn woods when exposed to temperature changes expand from the top to the bottom, reducing the possibilities of developing both gaps and cupping. It is, therefore, wiser to opt for quarter-sawn wood even though this type of wood will rarely be pre-finished at the factory.
The narrower the boards, the more seams your flooring eventually contains, and this significantly assists in the absorption of possible shifts. Narrower boards are therefore the better choice compared to wider boards.
You must also consider the species. As a result of its stability, solid white oak can be successfully applied over radiant heat, while several other types of wood, including Brazilian Cherry, Maple, and Pecan are not recommended for use over radiant heat. Discussing the different floor options available with your flooring service provider ensures you choose the most suitable option for your home.
Professionalism
Nailing down or stapling of wood is usually a part of the installation process of the ¾ inch solid wood floors, and this involves the risk of possible punctures to the radiant heat tubing underneath the wood. It is, therefore, an excellent idea to engage the services of a certified and professional installer, one with experience in such installations.
Engineered Hardwoods
For the installation of hardwood flooring over radiant heat, engineered woods make the better choice. The arrangement of thin plies of wood is made such that the wood grains end up running in opposite directions. As a result of cross-ply construction, the planks are consequently more dimensionally stable, offering less movement, and withstand moisture as well as variations in temperatures far better compared to the solid woods.
Most of the engineered woods can also be floated, which essentially makes them quite ideal for installation over concrete, plus a majority of the flat and secure subfloors. Even though most of the manufacturers cover the installations of engineered floating floors over radiant heating systems with warranties, all installations have to be conducted as per the manufacturer’s specifications and guidelines.
Benefits of Radiant Heating with Wood Floors
In-floor radiant heating systems are quite reliable and durable, plus they provide evenly distributed and set temperatures, which consequently assists in the preservation of hardwood floors and offer the possibility of lasting for up to 35 years.
Radiant heating systems warm rooms from the floor upwards, resulting in the capability and comfort of setting home thermostats to lower temperatures, which effectively reduces energy consumption and saves money, even more so for hardwood flooring since it retains heat for longer periods compared to other flooring materials. Moreover, if you put to use, modern products like using a cheap smart thermostat, you could further reduce electrical waste and efficiency.
Due to the minimized use of the central air heating system, the blowing of dust, dirt particles and allergens through vents and into homes is also greatly reduced.
Wood floors are additionally ideal for radiant heating because of the possibility to reduce extra noise, mainly due to muffling characteristic, though radiant heating does not use a blower and usually produces very minimal sounds.
